Leash Training 101: How to Stop Pulling and Enjoy Walks Again
Do you feel like your dog is taking you for a walk instead of the other way around? If you’ve ever found yourself being walked by your eager pooch, you’re not alone. Leash pulling is one of the most common dog behavior challenges, but the good news is it can be fixed. In this guide, we’ll break down a step-by-step leash training plan and give tailored tips for different types of dogs. With a little practice (and a sense of humor), you and your furry friend will be strolling in harmony in no time. Let’s jump in!
Step-by-Step Leash Training Guide
1. Start in a low-distraction environment. Clip on a proper leash and collar or harness. A “proper” leash or harness is subjective and can depend on your dog’s personality and size. However, a standard 4–6-foot leash is best for training, not a retractable. If your dog is small or has a delicate throat, a comfortable harness to protect their neck may be more suitable. Personally, I prefer a harness so I’m not pulling my dog. Arm yourself with a plethora of small treats as rewards.
2. Begin with Short, Rewarding Steps: In your quiet area (living room, backyard, etc.), choose a cue such as “Let’s go!” in an upbeat tone and take a few steps forward – dogs respond well to the tone in your voice, so it’s important to use a “happy” tone. The moment your dog follows without pulling, praise them and give them a treat close to you (so they stay near you). At first, you might be rewarding every single step that’s taken on a loose leash and that’s okay – you’re teaching your dog that staying near you is the best thing ever. Even if you only make it a few feet without pulling, celebrate that success and gradually build on it. The training will only go uphill from here!
3. Stop When They Pull: The instant your dog starts to forge ahead and the leash goes taut, stop in your tracks immediately. Don’t yank the leash or shout; just plant yourself firmly on the ground. Your dog will likely turn back or look at you, confused why you stopped. The moment the leash loosens, which means your dog either takes a step back toward you or turns around, respond with a happy “Yes!” and resume walking. This teaches your doggie that pulling gets them nowhere, while a slack leash makes the walk continue. Consistency is key here – if sometimes they get to move forward while pulling, they’ll keep trying it.
4. Use the Turn-Around Trick: An alternative (or complementary) method when your dog pulls is the 180-degree turn. If your dog lunges ahead even once you’ve stopped, calmly say “This way!” and turn around and walk in the opposite direction. No jerking or pulling on the leash. Your dog will hustle to catch up with you. Once they’re by your side, praise them and reward them with a treat. After a few paces in the new direction, you can turn back and continue your original route. This approach teaches your dog that pulling takes them away from whatever they were interested in.
5. Practice Start & Stop Cues: During your training walks, periodically stop and ask your dog to “sit” at your side. This helps reinforce that you control the pace of the walk. It also gives your dog a chance to calm down if they’re getting too excited. This method is especially important if you are walking on a busier street and there are a ton of cars on the road. One dog I walk would love to bark and try to chase after every car that passed us, and this is not good. Especially if the dog has a strong grip and could potentially yank you into the road. The important thing here is to keep your dog’s attention on you and not on the passing cars. After they sit, reward and say “Let’s go” to continue. Over time, your dog will learn to anticipate stops without frustration and associate stopping the walk with sitting down.
6. Gradually Increase Distractions: Once your dog is walking politely on a loose leash in your yard or a quiet area, it’s time to up the ante gradually. Practice in a slightly more distracting environment – perhaps a calm street or a park during off-peak hours. Keep rewarding good behavior with treats or praise, but you can space them out more as your dog gets the hang of it. If at any point your dog regresses and starts pulling a lot, reduce the distractions or distance. Remember, patience and repetition are everything.
7. Be Consistent and Patient: Dogs aren’t born knowing how to walk on a leash – it’s a skill we must teach them. So be patient and stick to the training. Make sure everyone who walks the dog follows the same rules (for example, no pulling allowed ever). In the beginning, you might not get very far on your walks because you’re doing a lot of stopping and turning – that’s normal! Each short session you invest in training will pay off in better leash manners. Keep things positive and upbeat, end sessions on a success, and remember to have a sense of humor. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and your dog won’t be perfectly trained in one week – but each walk will get better and more enjoyable.
Now that we’ve covered the basics, let’s talk specifics. Different dogs may require a slightly different approach. Below, we’ll look at special tips by dog type and energy levels.
Leash Training Tips for Small Breeds
Don’t underestimate the energy and strength small dogs hold! Small breed dogs (think Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Shih Tzus, and other little guys, typically up to 15 pounds) might not physically yank your arm out of its socket, but they can still develop bad leash habits if not trained. In fact, owners often accidentally reinforce pulling in small dogs because, let’s face it, a 10-pound dog dragging you doesn’t feel as dramatic as a 100-pound dog. It’s easy to let a small dog get away with pulling because it seems “minor.” Resist that temptation! Training a small dog to walk politely is just as important – it makes walks more pleasant and keeps your tiny friend safe.
Small dogs can be prone to tracheal injuries if they pull against a collar, so use a harness that doesn’t put pressure on their throat. A front-clip harness can give you a bit more control as you train, gently discouraging pulling by redirecting them toward you. Encourage your small dog with a happy voice when they’re trotting alongside you on a loose leash. Many small breeds are super smart and food-motivated, so use that to your advantage. If your dog tends to get distracted, practice the step-stop-step routine in a quiet area first until they get the idea. Consistency is key: even if it’s easy to tug a small dog back on course, stick to the training techniques (stop when they pull, reward when they’re good). Your petite pooch will soon learn that walking beside you at your pace is the best way to explore.
Leash Training Tips for Large Breeds
Training a medium to large breed dog (any dog over 15 pounds) to stop pulling is essential – your shoulder socket will thank you. Big dogs have tons of strength, so the earlier you instill good leash habits, the better. Start training as young as possible, before your gentle giant realizes they outweigh you! Use sturdy equipment – a solid leash (retractable leashes will not work well) and a well-fitting collar or harness. Many large dog owners swear by front-attachment no-pull harnesses or head halters to give extra control. These tools can be lifesavers as a management strategy: for example, a front-clip harness will cause a pulling dog to turn back toward you, and a head halter lets you direct even a strong dog’s head. Just remember, these products are not magic – you should use them alongside the training techniques above (rewarding slack leash, stopping for pulling).
When working with a big dog, consistency and strength matter. Plant your feet when they pull so you become an immovable object. It might surprise your dog the first few times when their forward momentum just stops. Once they give you slack, praise and continue. You may have to repeat this a lot (big dogs often have tons of determination to get where they want), but stay strong – literally and figuratively! Keep initial training walks short to avoid getting dragged into frustration. It also helps to anticipate triggers: if you know your Great Dane is about to launch forward after spotting another dog, proactively call their name and maybe change direction before they hit the end of the leash. Catching their attention early is easier. And don’t forget to reward your big dog for the moments they do walk nicely. Oftentimes, we get relieved by a calm moment we forget to praise it – let your dog know when they’re doing right! With time and practice, your large dog will learn that walking politely gets them the freedom they crave, while pulling makes the fun stop. Then you can finally enjoy a stroll without feeling like you’re being pulled along.
Leash Training Tips for High-Energy Dogs
If your dog has the energy of a tornado, proper leash training might seem like a pipe dream. High-energy dogs often pull simply because walking is too slow and boring for their taste. They want to run, chase, and go now! For these enthusiastic walkers, a few tweaks can make a big difference:
Exercise Before You Walk: It may sound counterintuitive, but a walk alone often isn’t enough to tire out a super energetic dog. If possible, let your dog burn off some steam before the training walk. Whether that’s a quick game of fetch in the yard, a few rounds of tug, or some zoomies in the house, wearing your dog’s energy out might help those wiled-up dogs take the edge off. A dog that’s gotten some energy out may be more capable of focusing on you rather than exploding at the end of the leash.
Pick Up the Pace: Our human walking speed is a snail’s pace to a dog that’s raring to go. Try walking briskly or even jogging for stretches of your walk. Many dogs will naturally match your speed and not feel the need to drag you. A faster pace also keeps their mind engaged – it’s harder to get bored and start looking for things to distract them when trotting along. Similarly, consider incorporating intervals – walk fast for a bit, then normal, then fast – to keep your dog guessing and paying attention.
Use That Nose as a Reward: High-energy doesn’t always mean not interested in sniffing. In fact, allowing sniff breaks can help even an overly excited dog to calm down. If your dog is doing well for a stretch, give a cue like “go sniff” and let them explore a shrub or grass patch (on a loose leash) for a minute. Sniffing is enriching and tiring for dogs, and if you use it as a reward for good behavior, it teaches your dog that not pulling earns them access to exploring.
Leash Length and Resistance: Constant tension on the leash can trigger a high-energy dog to pull even harder (they often have that “opposition reflex” – you pull back, they pull forward more). Make sure you’re using a leash that’s long enough to allow some freedom. A short, tight leash can encourage pulling by always putting pressure on the dog. Instead, you want the leash to have a little slack when they’re by your side. Of course, don’t give so much leash that they can dash into danger – but avoid the habit of always keeping the leash taut, despite the logical reasoning to do so. Encourage your dog to check in with you often by randomly offering treats when they look at you or come to your side. High-energy dogs can get distracted easily, so make yourself fun and interesting: carry a squeaky toy in your pocket, change directions unexpectedly, or practice quick sits/downs for treats mid-walk to keep their minds occupied. A mentally engaged dog is less likely to find their own “entertainment” at the end of the leash.
Leash Training Tips for Anxious or Nervous Dogs
Not all dogs pull out of joy or exuberance – some pull because they’re scared or anxious. An anxious dog might try to bolt or pull toward home. Leash training a nervous dog focuses on helping them feel secure and building their confidence step by step. Here are some tips:
Start Small (Literally): Begin your walks in a safe and familiar area to your dog. The goal is to get your dog comfortable moving with you on leash without overwhelming them. As they get more confident, you can gradually extend the distance. For some anxious dogs, the world is full of scary objects and noises (garbage cans, loud trucks, that suspicious mailbox…). By introducing the world gradually, you show your dog that they’re safe by your side.
Use Positive Reinforcement to Build Confidence: Bring out the high-value treats for these guys – think pieces of chicken or cheese – whatever makes your dog’s eyes light up. Reward any sign of relaxed behavior on the walk: if your dog is walking calmly, looking up at you, or even sniffing something curiously (sniffing can indicate they’re shifting from fear to exploration), reward with a soft “Yes!” and a treat. If they see a potential “scary thing” (like a stranger, another dog, or a stroller) and don’t freak out, praise and reward. Over time, your anxious dog will start to associate walks and new sights with yummy treats and praise, rather than only fear.
Keep the Leash Loose and Gear Secure: Nervous dogs can be flight risks – some will try to wriggle out of collars or harnesses if they panic. Make sure your dog’s collar or harness is properly fitted (you might even use a martingale collar or a double-clip leash that attaches to both a harness and collar for extra security). At the same time, try to keep the leash slack as much as possible. If an anxious dog feels constant tension, it can increase their stress. You want them to choose to stay near you, not feel like they’re being dragged or restrained, which can essentially reaffirm their fears.
Take “Confidence Breaks” and Watch Body Language: Allow your dog to take breaks during the walk. If they seem tense – some body language signs include a tail tucked, ears back, panting, or darting eyes - pause in a quiet spot and let them just exist for a moment. You can kneel and offer comfort or some treats. Sometimes taking a minute can help a dog gather themselves (much like humans in a stressful environment). Speak in a cheerful, reassuring voice and celebrate the small victories such as walking past a trash can without a reaction. This may sound silly, but your dog feels your encouragement.
Know When to Call It a Day: For an anxious dog, shorter, positive outings beat long, stressful ones. End the session while your dog is handling it well, even if it’s just 5 minutes, rather than pushing them until they have a meltdown. Gradually, that 5 minutes can become 10, 15, and so on. If your dog has a panic moment and really starts pulling frantically, stay calm and safely turn back toward home. You don’t want them practicing panicked pulling, but you also need to get them out of the situation that triggered it. Next time, go a smaller distance or choose a quieter time/location to walk.
Remember, the goal with a fearful dog is to make leash walks a positive, safe experience. It’s not just about manners, but about trust. As your anxious pup learns that you’ve “got their back” on walks, their confidence will grow. In time, you’ll have a dog that walks with you, finding comfort in your presence even when the world gets a little scary. And there’s nothing more heartwarming for an owner than seeing that transformation.
Common Leash Training Mistakes (and How to Fix Them)
Even with the best intentions, we humans sometimes mess up the training process. Here are some common leash-training mistakes dog owners make, along with tips to set things right:
Letting pulling “work” sometimes: Consistency is crucial. If your dog pulls and sometimes you keep walking (or worse, even speed up to appease them), you’re accidentally teaching them that pulling gets them where they want to go.
Fix this: Make a firm rule that pulling never gets a reward. Every single time that leash goes tight, you stop or turn the opposite way until your dog returns to you. Yes, it requires patience (and maybe extra time for walks at first), but dogs learn by repetition. Don’t worry – with consistency, they’ll catch on that only a loose leash lets the fun continue.
Jerking or yelling at the dog: Yanking the leash or scolding your dog out of frustration is a common reaction, but it’s counterproductive. Most dogs respond to a leash jerk by pulling even harder (a natural reflex to opposition), and yelling can make them anxious or simply tune you out.
Fix this: Swap punishment for calm correction. As noted earlier, stop in place when they pull, or gently guide them in another direction. Keep your tone upbeat. When they do come back toward you or the leash slackens, praise them. By avoiding harsh corrections and focusing on teaching, you’ll find your dog is much more responsive.
Using the wrong equipment: A poorly chosen leash or collar can sabotage your training. For instance, retractable leashes encourage dogs to pull and encourages you to always keep the leash taut. Both of these actions are mistakes but can easily be fixed!
Fix this: Use a standard fixed-length leash for training, ideally 4 to 6 feet long so your dog has room to explore without constant tension. Store those retractable leashes until your dog has perfected their leash manners (and even then, use caution). If your dog is a strong puller, consider equipment like a front-clip harness or head halter to give you better control – but still do the training. The goal is to have a dog that won’t pull, even on a regular leash.
Skipping training (just expecting the dog to “get it”): We’ve all been there – you’re in a rush or you just want a relaxing walk, and you end up letting your training lapses slide. But if you never actively teach your dog loose-leash walking, they won’t magically figure it out.
Fix this: Make time for dedicated training walks. These can be very short – even 5-10 minutes focused on practice is fine. Start in a no-distraction zone and then slowly add in more real-world walk elements. Set aside some walks as “training mode” and some as “free sniff time” so they know when to pay attention. (You can even use different gear – e.g., a specific harness for “free walk” versus a training collar – dogs are smart about routines!)
Not rewarding good behavior: A mistake many of us make is only reacting to the bad (pulling) and forgetting to reinforce the good. If you ignore your dog when they are walking nicely, how are they to know that’s exactly what you want?
Fix this: Whenever you notice a slack leash and your dog walking at your side, praise and reward them. Some owners worry that giving treats during walks will make a dog beg – on the contrary, it gives them a reason to stick with you. Over time you can phase out the constant treats, but even then, praise your dog or surprise them with the occasional reward to help keep your dog motivated to stay by you. Remember, dogs repeat behaviors that are rewarding– so make polite walking more rewarding than pulling.
Expecting too much too soon (and losing patience): Leash training can be a slow process, especially if your dog has been pulling for a long time. It’s easy to get discouraged or frustrated if progress isn’t instant.
Fix this: Manage your expectations and celebrate small wins. Maybe today you could only walk past one house without pulling, whereas last week you couldn’t even leave the driveway – that’s progress! Try to end each session on a positive note (even if it means finishing the walk early after a great loose-leash stretch). If you feel frustration building, it’s okay to pause the training and take a break. In fact, dogs are attuned with humans emotions, so it’s best to train your dog when you are in the right state of mind. And if you’re really struggling, consider enlisting a professional dog trainer for a session – sometimes an outside perspective and a little coaching can work wonders for both ends of the leash.
Leash training can certainly test your patience, but the payoff is huge: enjoyable walks, safety, and a stronger bond with your dog. By understanding your dog’s needs (are they tiny? huge? super energetic? a bit nervous?) and avoiding common pitfalls, you’ll set you and your dog up for success.
No more being dragged down the block or getting your arm nearly pulled out of its socket when a squirrel appears. Instead, you’ll have a dog who happily walks at your side and enjoying the walk rather than treating it like a race. You’ll go from cautious walks to leisurely strolls where you can both stop and smell the roses (quite literally!).
With that being said, grab your leash, some treats, and give these tips a try. With consistency, positivity, and a dash of humor, you’ll turn those pull-filled walks into quality time together. Here’s to stress-free, tail-wagging adventures ahead – for both you and your best friend. Happy walking!
